TypeWriter: A Complete Beginner’s Guide

TypeWriter Maintenance: Cleaning, Repairs, and TroubleshootingTypewriters are tactile, mechanical instruments that reward care and attention. Whether you own a vintage manual, an electric model from mid‑century, or a later portable, regular maintenance keeps typing smooth, extends the machine’s life, and preserves its value. This article covers routine cleaning, common repairs, troubleshooting tips, and guidance on when to consult a professional.

Regular maintenance:

Soft brushes (camel-hair or small paintbrush).
Compressed air (canned) — use sparingly and from a distance.
Lint‑free cloths and cotton swabs.
Denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (90%+ for sticky residue).
Light machine oil (sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 light oil).
Grease for gears (plastic‑safe grease if the machine has plastic gears).
Rubber rejuvenator (Bactine‑free rubber dressing or specialty platen rejuvenator).
Replacement ribbon(s) matching your model.
Small screwdrivers, needle‑nose pliers, tweezers.
Magnifying glass or loupe.
Protective gloves (nitrile) and eye protection if using sprays.

Unplug electric typewriters before working on them.
For mains‑powered repairs, if you’re not comfortable with electronics, consult a technician.
Work in a well‑ventilated area when using solvents.
Keep small parts organized to avoid losing springs and screws.

Remove ribbon and cover the type slugs with a cloth to avoid ink splatter.
Use a soft brush to remove loose dust, crumbs, and old ribbon lint from between keys, segment, and type bars.
Blow out remaining debris with short bursts of compressed air, holding cans upright.
Clean type slugs: dip a cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and gently rub each type slug to remove ink buildup. For heavy gumming, let alcohol soak briefly, then brush.
Clean the platen (rubber roller): wrap a lint‑free cloth around the roller and rotate it while wiping with a ⁄₅₀ mix of water and isopropyl alcohol. Avoid solvents that can degrade rubber.
Wipe the carriage rails with a dry cloth; if sticky, use a lightly oiled cloth and then remove excess oil.
Reinstall or replace the ribbon; run a few test lines on scrap paper.

Disassemble the housing and remove the type basket or segment as your model allows. Document or photograph each step so you can reassemble correctly.
Clean internal gears, cams, and linkages with solvent and brush. Avoid soaking parts with water.
Inspect for rust; use fine steel wool or a rust eraser lightly, then protect with a thin coat of oil.
Replace brittle or crumbling pads, felts, and feed rollers if necessary. These parts wear and directly affect paper feed and spacing.

Use a few drops of light oil on pivot points (key levers, type bar joints). Wipe away excess — over‑oiling attracts dust.
Grease may be appropriate for mainshafts and large gears; use a small amount of plastic‑safe grease when needed.
Avoid oiling the typefaces, platen surface, or brake bands.
Never use WD‑40 as a lubricant — it’s a solvent and attracts dirt.

Sticking keys
- Cause: dirt/gummed ink, bent linkages, dried oil.
- Fix: clean type bars and segment slots; apply light oil to pivots; realign bent bars gently with pliers.
Weak or uneven impression
- Cause: worn ribbon, hardened ribbon, hardened platen, misaligned type.
- Fix: replace ribbon; rejuvenate or replace platen; check typebar alignment and adjust.
Carriage won’t advance or is sluggish
- Cause: dirty carriage rails, dried lubrication, broken drawband or spring.
- Fix: clean rails, lubricate lightly, inspect drawband; replace broken drawband (many models have available kits).
Skipping or irregular spacing
- Cause: escapement worn or gummed; grease on escapement wheel.
- Fix: clean escapement area with solvent; minor burrs on teeth can sometimes be smoothed; severe wear may require parts replacement.
Paper not feeding properly
- Cause: worn feed rollers, platen diameter reduced, feed roller slippage.
- Fix: replace feed rollers or recover/replace platen; ensure paper bail pressure is correct.
Electric motor issues (for electric models)
- Cause: brushes worn, capacitor issues, belt failure.
- Fix: replace motor brushes if serviceable; replace belts; for electrical components consult a qualified technician.

Ribbons: measure spool spindle and ribbon width; many modern repro ribbons fit common models (e.g., Universal 13mm/9mm).
Platen recovery: commercial services can re‑rubberize platens; DIY kits exist but require skill.
Drawbands and springs: sometimes available from typewriter parts suppliers; measure length and attachment points.
Keytops: replacements exist for popular models; small restorations may require glue and careful painting.

Broken mainspring, severely stripped gears, or complex motor/electrical failures.
Major platen recovery or precise escapement adjustments.
If the machine is a valuable antique and you’re unsure — professional restoration preserves value.

Store in a dry, temperature‑stable place away from direct sunlight.
Cover with a breathable cloth; plastic wraps can trap moisture.
Periodically roll the platen and typebars to prevent sticking.
Replace ribbon if unused for a long time — old ribbons can dry and gum the type.

Specialist typewriter supply shops online carry ribbons, oils, and parts.
Local repair shops, sewing machine parts suppliers, and collector communities can be sources of rare parts.
Salvage from donor machines can be economical for obsolete models.

Keep a small maintenance kit: brushes, alcohol, light oil, spare ribbon, screwdriver.
Photograph disassembly steps.
Work slowly and keep small parts organized.
Document model and serial numbers before ordering parts.

If you want, tell me your typewriter model (make and serial if available) and I’ll give model‑specific cleaning steps and parts sources.